Mariella Barbato The history of the aperitif.
The aperitivo in Naples is not just a moment of the day.
It is a sigh before sunset, a luminous pause between work and life, a ritual that combines history, taste and a very particular way of understanding pleasure.
If today the terraces of the lungomare are filled with orange-colored glasses and laughter, it is because behind this daily gesture hides a tradition that comes from far away, much older and fascinating than it seems.
From Rome to Parthenope: the origins of the aperitif
The word aperitif comes from the Latin aperire, “to open”, because it whetted the appetite before the meal.
The Romans already practiced it: before dinner, they drank spiced wines or infusions that stimulated the palate.
Naples, a direct heir to this Mediterranean spirit, adopted this custom very early on.
In Greco-Roman times, the inhabitants of the gulf used to drink aromatic drinks made from local herbs – fennel, lemon, rosemary – before sitting down to eat. It was a way to prepare the body, yes, but also to prepare the soul.
In that ancient Parthenope there was already the idea of stopping, talking, tasting. An idea that would never leave the city.
The history of the aperitif in the 19th century: the golden age of Neapolitan cafés
In the history of the Aperitif, the ritual as we know it began to take shape between the eighteenth and nineteenth century, when Naples was the capital of the Kingdom and one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Europe.
At that time the great historical cafés were born, temples of thought and sociability:
- Caffè Gambrinus, opened in 1860, meeting point for musicians, writers, artists and politicians.
- Caffè Aragonese, frequented by aristocrats and travelers.
- Caffè del Professore and other lounges where artisanal vermouths, liqueur wines and the first “bitter aperitifs” were drunk.
There, bitter drinks (amari), imported from northern Italy or made by local apothecaries who mixed medicinal herbs with alcohol to “awaken” the appetite, became popular.
Imagine those lounges with golden ceilings, shiny marble and the smell of freshly ground coffee mixed with citrus perfume.
It is the birth of the elegant aperitif, of slow conversation and background music.
The 20th century: spritz arrives in Neapolitan life
Although today it seems that the Spritz is as Neapolitan as pizza, its origin is in northeastern Italy, at the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The soldiers diluted the wine with carbonated water -spritzen-and eventually a bitter liqueur such as Aperol or Campari was added.
And how do you get to Naples?
Through two unavoidable paths:
- The modernization of tourism in the 70s and 80s, when the spritz became a light, aesthetic, summery drink.
- The “social aperitif” culture, which exploded in Italy in the 2000s, especially among young people looking for a fresh, colorful and not too strong drink.
In Naples, the spritz finds its Mediterranean soul:
is drunk with a view of Vesuvius, accompanied by crispy taralli or fresh mozzarella, amidst laughter and lively conversation.
Today, the city has even developed its own variations:
- Limoncello Spritz, fresh and aromatic.
- Amalfi Spritz, with liqueurs from the Coast.
- Spritz vulcanico, with handmade amaros from Campania.
The spritz, adopted with affection, becomes a symbol of a modern Naples but faithful to its essence.
The appetizer becomes a feast
While in other cities the aperitif is light, in Naples it evolves into something more generous.
The culture of the buffets, the montanarine, the frittatina di pasta, the taralli, the pizzette… all this turns the aperitif into a small popular banquet.
It is a natural extension of Neapolitan hospitality: where there is a drink, there must be something to nibble on; where there is a friend, there must be plenty.
This exuberance is part of the city’s identity: in Naples life is celebrated through what is shared at the table.
Aperitif with a view: the modern rite
Today, the aperitif in Naples is experienced in the open air:
- Lungomare Caracciolo, with the sea moving gently and Castel dell’Ovo as guardian.
- Chiaia, elegant and vibrant.
- Vomero, with panoramic terraces that illuminate the city.
- Piazza Bellini, bohemian and young.
The setting is always the protagonist, because in Naples the aperitif is not only taste: it is atmosphere.
Conclusion: a ritual that never loses its magic.
From Roman infusions to nineteenth-century coffees, from artisanal vermouth to modern spritz, the aperitif in Naples is living proof that some traditions are transformed without losing their essence.
It remains what it always was:
a moment to stop time, to celebrate the everyday, to share the simple beauty of drinking something good in the company of those we love.
In Naples, you don’t drink an aperitif.
You live it.
Salute, and thank you for joining me on this journey through history.
With love,
YourNeapolitan girl!
